“Through time and tide, set out on your own quest for King Arthur and the ancient Celtic kingdom with a trip to Cornwall.”
A land full of magic and mystery scattered with wind-blown cliff-tops and fishing villages. Cornwall is the westernmost part of England.
The first time I went to Cornwall was in 2009 with my parents and I fell in love with its stunning landscapes and its coastline. I went back after several years and I can say that I still love this land. This post is a diary-style post about a trip to Cornwall that I did a couple of years ago with some friends, during a bank holiday. If you are planning to go to Cornwall and you are looking for a budget trip then read this post about my three day trip to Cornwall.
ITINERARY
DAY ONE
Bank holidays in England are the perfect occasion for a break and the traffic is usually awful! Roads in the UK are not exactly the best feature of this country as there are only a few motorways. To avoid traffic, we left Horsham in West Sussex at about 4.30 am and it took us about 5 hours to get to the first landmark of our journey, Tintagel Castle, which is said to be the birthplace of King Arthur. We arrived there at about 9.45 am before the visitor centre opened. We parked the car in a pay and display parking which was only a 10-minute walk from the Castle.
Tintagel Castle
Tintagel village is small but you will find several souvenirs shops and pubs. You will walk along a footpath which will bring you to the castle’s ruins. A shuttle service is available for disabled people and it is also worth taking into consideration that there are several steep stairs to get to the castle site, in case you have any health problems or children. The passage is very narrow and you might have to wait in a queue if there are a lot of children struggling with the steps.
The scenery is evocative; clifftop ruins of an ancient castle stand on the rugged and asperous coast of Nothern Cornwall. Perhaps King Arthur used to look out to sea from this same wild coast at the rough waters centuries ago. The low tide makes the scenery even more fascinating, revealing one of the most magical places, where it is said Merlin himself lived, the Merlin’s Cave, which you can discover by walking down to the beach.
The ticket to the castle was £9.50 but it has increased a lot in just 2 years. Now it’s 18 £ per person. To be honest I think it is very expensive considering that are only ruins and you can see them quite well from the outside. The view is stunning but you can have a beautiful view from the public footpath along the coast as well. If you go there and if you are passionate about history, then it’s worth a visit. Otherwise, I would suggest you take a walk around and admire the landscape and the castle from the opposite cliff. My partner and I bought the ticket whereas our friends considered that the whole thing was not worth it. This is why I say that you should go only if you want to immerse yourself in history and myths.
Port Isaac
After Tintagel, we headed towards Port Isaac. A tiny and traditional fishing village nestled in a small cove with whitewashed cottages surrounded by the shiny green of the hills. We parked in a large car park outside the town centre and then we walked to the picturesque harbour. With the low tide, you can reach the dock and have a nice view of the village from the sea. Grab something to eat from one of the pubs and then take the footpath uphill, from the square at the port that brings you up to the cliff. The view we got was splendid.
DAY 2
S. Michael Mount
Unfortunately, we weren’t as lucky as the first day. The weather was really bad so we took it easier and slept until late and we left after breakfast for S. Michael mount. It is situated in front of the town Marazion and is revealed by the low tide during the day and separated by the land during the night, like Mont S Michel in France. This small island is immersed in magic and myth. It is said to be the island of the giants.
According to the legend, once upon a time, it is said that the giant Cormoran lived on the mount. He regularly stole and ate cows or fields of crops, scaring the people living in the surrounding villages. It is said that a young man named Jack dug a huge hole at the bottom of the hillside whilst the giant was sleeping. Jack then blew his horn, waking Cormoran who came straight away down the hill and fell into the hole. Based on this Fairytale was the film “Jack the Giant Killer” 1962 and the remake in 2013.
When we arrived the island was drenched in a misty clouded haze. A cobbled footpath in the middle of what at night is the bottom of the sea, emerged, surrounded by seaweed. We tried to reach the island but the high tide reached us first and we were forced to go back. We could have gone by boat, it was 4 £ for the return ticket, but we didn’t as our friends were not interested in visiting the castle! If you go ensure you check the tide times.
S. Ives village
Our next stop was S. Ives which is only 20 minutes away by car. If you are going by car during the weekend be aware that it is going to be very busy and difficult to find parking as well as a place to have dinner! Once a fishing village, St. Ives is now one of the most popular holiday destinations in Cornwall, with its beautiful sandy beaches and art galleries. We had a nice walk in the cobbled streets and we were thinking of having dinner there but, unfortunately, we could not find a place until 9.30 so we decided to go somewhere else as our men were starving!
DAY 3
Looe village
I decided to visit Looe on the last day as our flat in Liskeard was only 25 minutes from there. Looe is another characteristic fishing village set up on the bank of the River Looe. In the morning the river is completely dried out because of the low tide. You can also get there by train along the scenic Looe Valley Line which twists and turns through the river’s Looe estuary. That’s how I got there the first time with my parents. I think this is actually the best transportation option. You avoid the traffic and you are fully immersed in the landscape.
The village is divided into two by the river and connected by a quaint stone bridge. From here you can have a nice view of the village and the low tide. There is a big car park (pay and display) just outside town and from there a pathway. Have a walk along its narrow streets up to the beach and don’t forget to buy a Celtic cross pendant souvenir.
HOW TO GET THERE
If you are planning a trip to Cornwall, travelling by car is probably the best choice. But be aware, if you have a navigator it will probably make you take the narrowest possible streets. You might end up crossing a river or driving across a farm with cows staring at you! However, you can consider public transport as an option. The first time I went to Cornwall I travelled by train and bus with no problem at all.
Cornwall is a beautiful and mythical land and I would probably go back again to discover more about this county. How about you? Are you ready to embark on a mythical quest around Cornwall?