ValentinaPIENZA TRAVEL GUIDE: WHAT TO SEE, WHERE TO STAY & WHERE TO EAT
THE IDEAL TOWN
Pienza is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a must-see place in Tuscany. Read through this Pienza travel guide to know what to do, where to eat and stay in Pienza.
Pienza is a perfect example of an ideal city. A concept born during the Renaissance, driven by the values of the Humanism movement. The ideal city of the Renaissance had to be symmetrical and harmonious. The most important thing was the main square with a clean and regular style that could allow social gatherings.
Pienza, became such a city thanks to Pope Pio II, whose name was Silvio Enea Piccolomini. Pio II was born in Pienza and he loved his city very much. During his absence, the town had been neglected and when he got back to visit it, he was very disappointed. As a result, he decided to invest lots of money to transform and renovate the city.
For the job, he hired Bernardo Rossellino and Leon Battista Alberti, some of the best artists of that time. The main restoration works affected mainly Piazza Pio II, the main square, and Corso Il Rossellino, the main street. The restoration works came to an end on 1462. Following this huge transformation, the town changed its name. Originally called Corsignano, the town was named after Pio II and became known as Pienza.
The best way to visit Pienza, is to start from Porta Del Murello and walk along Corso Del Rossellino until the square Piazza Pio II.
PIENZA TRAVEL GUIDE: WHAT TO SEE & DO
PALAZZO PICCOLOMINI & PIAZZA PIO II
The square had to be the centre of urban life. Once you are in the square, you will see that this is still the focal point of social life in Pienza. All around the main building of this square there are benches made of stone, allowing people to meet and have a seat. Every evening the residents meet here to have a chat, with children playing around. Piazza Pio II was also going to be the place where Pio II residence was going to be built. This residence has become the current Palazzo Piccolomini and it’s open for visits. The palace has all the features of the Renaissance architecture. Bernardo Rossellino took inspiration from Palazzo Rucellai in Florence, built by Leon Battista Alberti. You can find the opening times and prices here: http://www.palazzopiccolominipienza.it/. Opposite to the duomo you will see the Palazzo Comunale with its clock tower.
PALAZZO VESCOVILE O PALAZZO BORGIA
In the same square, you will find Palazzo Vescovile or Palazzo Borgia just opposite Palazzo Piccolomini. Pio II donated this building to his close collaborator Rodrigo Borgia, who will then become the future pope Alessandro VI. Rodrigo Borgia made this palace his residence. The Palazzo Vescovile hosts the Museo Diocesano with several artworks from different periods.
SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA DUOMO
The duomo is probably the most beautiful building in Pienza. Maybe it’s even better by night, with the light of the white travertine standing out. Made of travertine stone, the duomo facade recalls the Malatestiano Temple in Rimini. There are one centrale nave and two side aisles, which reflect on the external architecture through the three pilaster strips. The building has both gothic and renaissance influences. At the top of the facade you will see the Piccolomini Crest.
WANDERING AROUND THE STREETS
One of the things I enjoyed the most, was to wandering around the alleys of Pienza. Don’t miss out the chance to explore the picturesque and cosy corners and alleys of this medieval town. Every window, balcony or little door is garnished with lovely flowers and plants. Restaurants and bars are spread all over the places.
From Piazza di Spagna and its al fresco restaurants, to the panoramic promenade, starting from Via Del Bacio, which will take you back to the Duomo. Grab an aperitivo at the Idyllium cocktail bar on the belvedere terrace, and, of course take some photos of the breathtaking view.
If you wish to enjoy more scenic views over the Val D’Orcia, go back to the Porta Del Murello and from Piazza Dante Alighieri take Via S. Caterina. This is a beautiful and car-free walk offering an amazing view.
ROMITORIO
Close to the city centre, near Santa Caterina church and located on a private land, there is a secret place: the Romitorio. Because it is on private ground, you can only visit it with a guided tour. The Romitorio is a cave dug into the tuff rock, below Santa Caterina and it is a sacred place. The cave consists of a few adjoining rooms with windows in the tuff wall with human shapes carved into the rocks whose meaning still unkown.
PIEVE DI CORSIGNANO
Just outside Pienza, you can find the Pieve Di Corsignano, the church where Pope Pio II had his baptism. You can see the exact place it was baptized by walkin ddown to the crypt. Built in tufa rock, the church perfectly blends with the surrounding landscape. The Pieve di Corsignano was built in Romanesque style around the XII century, although, its origin dates back to the VII century. The thick and solid has some influences from the ravennate architecture.
If you visit the place, look for some interesting details chiselled into the stones. One is the intertwined serpents, a pagan symbol, on one of the columns and the second is the two tailed mermaid on the main portal. You will find the same two tailed mermaid carving in the Romitorio.
There are some footpath starting from the Pieve Di Corsignano. One of them should take you to the Vitaleta Church but it’s a long a way. Check here for more information: http://www.perlavaldorcia.com/2017/04/i-sentieri-della-val-dorcia-una-mappa.html.
HOW TO GET GET HERE. There is a small free car park close to the Pieve. It is very small, so if it is full you might have to go back another time. If you decide to drive there from Pienza, you would need to take Strada Provinciale Del Monte Amiata and take the street on the right at the first bend. If you are walkinf from Porta Del Murello in Pienza, take Piazza Dante Alighieri street and turn right at the end of the road. It should take you about 10 minutes.
THE GLADIATOR CYPRESSES: LOCATION OF THE GLADIATOR FILM
Of course everybody knows the movie “The Gladiator”, but not everybody knows that a particular scene has been filmed near Pienza. The scene I am talking about is the wheat fields on, where Maximus walks through the field of wheat. Actually one of my favourite scenes, accompanied by the beautiful soundtrack “Now we are free”.
Walk through the same golden fields, brush the swinging wheat spikes, listen to the wind or maybe have the soundtrack ready to be played. You will sense freedom surrounded by this idyllic and placid landscape. Make sure you go before the wheat has been cut. You will still enjoy an amazing view but it will lack a bit of its magic I think. Probably the time is end of May or beginning of June. Unfortunately, due to COVID restrictions, I couldn’t go earlier this year! One more reason to go back!
HOW TO GET HERE. The Gladiator fields are very close to the Pieve of Corsignano. From there you need to take a footpath on the left. the descend is quite steep especially when you’ll have to climb it back! You will recgnize the spot. The footpath will carry on until a B&B but it is private property.
PIENZA TRAVEL GUIDE: THE BEST PLACE WHERE TO EAT IN PIENZA
Although there are plenty of restaurants in Pienza, I think it is very difficult to find a place where you can eat well without spending too much.
There are lots of fine restaurants, (maybe even too much) with high prices and we struggled to find a nice one with good value for money. We had dinner in Pienza for 3 nights and in the end, the best one for us, which I would definitely recommend is “Da Fiorella“.
DA FIORELLA
Da Fiorella is the classic tuscan trattoria. Just as you would expect it to be and just what I was looking for. It’s a traditional family-run restaurant. With a small and cosy ambience, small tables and a very funny and friendly owner who tries to speak every language in his own way!
Considering the prices we saw ( and we checked out lots of places trust me!) Da Fiorella had the best value for money. Prices are reasonable, I would say medium level, the dishes are generous and very tasty, all homemade.
Pici 
Chickpea soup 
Crespelle
RECOMMENDATIONS. Well, I can certainly recommend what we had. We had as starters:
- Pecorino di Pienza fuso con radicchio rosso, pera fresca e noci: local pecorino cheese with radicchio salad, pears and walnuts.
MAIN COURSES:
- Crespelle fatte a mano ripiene di pecorino fresco di Pienza, zucchine e noce moscata; stuffed pasta with local pecorino cheese, courgettes and ground nutmeg.
- Pici fatti a mano al ragù di Fiorella: a traditional, hand-made, type of pasta with home made ragu.
- Zuppa di ceci: chickpea soup of the day
- Costata di vitello: beef entrecôte
WINE: Rosso di Montepulciano. It was definitely not among the most expensive but I liked it and I would recommend it if you wish to taste a good local wine without spending too much ;).
A USEFUL TIP: It’s almost impossible to eat in Pienza on a Wednesday. Almost every restaurant was closed! It’s like the resting day and you will struggle to find a place! Ensure you check before and book a table or have dinner at your agriturismo if you can or just somewherelse.
ROSSELLINO RESTAURANT: FINE DINING
Well, this is a very fine restaurant in the nice settings of Piazza di Spagna. However, I would only recommend this restaurant if t is for a special occasion or if you have someone to impress! This is definitely not the place to go if you are very hungry, as the portions are very small!
They offer excellent service, excellent presentation of the dishes, and high-quality food but mind me when I say that there is very little to eat! It is also quite expensive: the price for a dessert was 9 euro, which in Italy is a lot. They have a wide range of wines, however, they are expensive too, nothing below 30 euro. Avoid the house wine San Giovese.
All the dishes they prepare are somehow revisited, so don’t expect to find traditional recipes here. If you are looking for the typical Tuscan osteria, with traditional dishes where you eat a lot this is not the place for you.
Should you decide to choose the Rossellino restaurant I would recommend the beef tagliata which was superb and the prawns sfogliatella with pecorino di Pienza froth.
SUGGESTED: OSTERIA SETTE DI VINO
There you go, this is the classic, traditional osteria in Piazza di Spagna. Square tables with dotted tablecloths, low prices and an engaging and outgoing owner. I can’t give you my personal opinion because I didn’t manage to go to this place. We walked in once but it was full, the following evening (Wednesday) it was closed, and the day after I called to reserve a table but they didn’t have any availability! So I’d say ensure you book in advance or maybe go for lunch. You might have more luck!
BEST PLACE WHERE TO PARK FOR FREE IN PIENZA
I believe the best parking where you can park is in Via S. Gregorio. It is opposite the coop, a supermarket, which is a plus if you need supplies or water. There is also a petrol station. There are some pay and display spaces but there are also free ones.
Some on the left and additional ones in a road on the left and more at the back of the car park on the right hand side in a unpaved area. If you have the motorbike you can park in Piazza Dante Alighieri under the trees.
BEST SELFIE SPOT IN PENZA: the belvedere point along Via Gozzante.
PIENZA TRAVEL GUIDE: WHERE TO STAY
LOCANDA VESUNA
Locanda Vesuna is an agriturismo providing B&B, hidden in the Val D’Orcia countryside surrounded by olive trees and wheat fields with stunning views over the hills.
There is a beautiful pool with a shower, on a terrace overlooking some top hill villages. Every bedroom has its own set of sunbeds and table so you don’t have to rush to grab a place. There is a lovely and intimate courtyard with a fountain refreshing the air. Here you will have your breakfast and dinner if you wish to.
THE RESTAURANT
The restaurant is very good and provides a good selection of local dishes, everything is fresh and homemade. This is why they require you to book the day before or in the morning for dinner. I recommend trying the tagliata and the tortino with pecorino as a starter and the cheesecake. The restaurant is usually closed on Thursday although they provide an apericena at a cost of 20 euro excluding drinks.
Breakfast is sere quite early until 9 am, which for me is even a bit too early! I am on holiday after all! It consists of homemade cakes, croissants, rusks, and jam. If you’d like anything else make sure you ask. If we hadn’t asked for orange juice and yogurt they wouldn’t probably have offered us.
BEDROOMS
Almost all the bedrooms overlook the courtyard which is a bit of a downside in terms of tranquility. If you like it quiet and you’d love more privacy ask for a quiet room when you book or at least avoid the Biancospina room. It was on the ground floor and the bedroom windows were overlooking the courtyard, very close to the tables so we could hear all the noises and voices before and during breakfast.
The bedrooms usually have, in addition to the double bed, a sofa bed, a table and a fridge as well. Unfortunately, no private table outside which is a shame, but there are table and chairs in the communal garden. You might need to ask for extra toiletries as there weren’t many provided. Every bedroom has a name of a tree.
As I said the Locanda Vesuna is hidden in the countryside. You will have to drive along an unpaved road for about 5 minutes, so give up on the idea of having your car clean and shining because it will get dusty! : ). At the beginning of the road on your left, there is a farm that sells local products, cheese and olive oil. It could be worth a visit.
If you enjoyed my Pienza Travel Guide, maybe you might be interested in this post: 6 TOP THINGS TO SEE IN VAL D’ORCIA.
